Chilean Patagonia, or more specifically Torres del Paine National Park, has some incredible treks and a multitude of camping and hiking opportunities, but I was travelling with people who prefer their nature viewed from the comfort of a warm bar, so instead of checking out our camping gear, we checked in to the Singular hotel.
Just outside Puerto Natales on the shores of a fjord in Last Hope Sound, the Singular is a former meat processing plant, lovingly renovated, with its own museum, and the Victorian engine room, tannery, smithy and original machinery on display. There’s also a spa and a pool, a bar and fine food, but one of the best things to do there is absolutely nothing.
And why risk leaving your room when you’ve got this view?
But some of us ventured forth, and with a cheeky bottle of Chilean red to hand, we perused the expeditions and excursions that the hotel offers.
The first excursion was a trek up to the summit of Mount Benitez and views of Laguna Sofia, Eberhard Fjord and the Señoret Canal, with magnificent condors flying overhead. Photos can’t even begin to capture how stunning the landscape is here, or the colours of the lakes and rivers, how fresh the air is, or just how insignificant it’s possible to feel when awed by the beauty of Mother Nature.
The next day we took a tour to the Mylodon Cave National Monument. This is actually three caves, the largest of which is 200 metres long, and is an incredibly important paleontological and archeological site. There’s evidence of human habitation here going back to around 11,000 years BCE, and the remains of long-extinct animals such as sabre-toothed cats, dwarf horses, and the eponymous Mylodon or giant prehistoric sloth, which stood twice as tall as a human, had a bear like body and long claws (but was, thankfully for our ancestors, a herbivore).
The day after, we got in boats from the hotel and set off for the Bernardo O’Higgins National Park and Port Toro, where we disembarked and took a gentle 45 minute stroll to see the Serrano Glacier. There’s something very sobering about spending 45 minutes walking past markers illustrating the gradual and very visible shrinking of a glacier. We had two official Chilean guides with us who had a disagreement about whether this was a natural climatic cycle or evidence of anthropomorphic global warming. All I know is that it probably wasn’t helping to use glacier ice to keep my morning whiskey cold…
We then headed to La Peninsula Ranch, for some horse riding, trekking, a sheep shearing display, and a traditional Patagonian bbq lamb lunch. All in all, a rather relaxing and splendid day.
Hikes and caves, sheep and dogs, glaciers, bbqs, boats and fresh, fresh air. There’s really nothing not to like about Chilean Patagonia. Plus, they’ve got really good wine 🍷🍷.
cheeky gin travels 